http://ezinepowerpublisher.com/ Articles at Article Directory - Ezine Power Publisher en-us http://ezinepowerpublisher.com/automotive/maintenance/garage-floor-mats-and-covers-are-a-nice-touch.html http://ezinepowerpublisher.com/automotive/maintenance/garage-floor-mats-and-covers-are-a-nice-touch.html Wed, 03 Mar 2010 03:23:24 -0600
Many homeowners choose to cover their garage floor with one of the several options available to them. Concrete is what most garage floors are made of but many people would rather have a different surface. Concrete is cold, hard, and unforgiving and it is not the best surface to have kids around. A softer surface and one that is more friendly to play on is preferable and less dangerous.

The concrete of your garage floor will be shielded from further wear and tear by using a popular polyvinyl mat. If your garage floor surface is painted, these polyvinyl mats will also protect your floor from scrapes and peeling. It will be very easy for you to find a mat that you like since they come in such a wide variety of styles and colors. In order to make cleaning or moving your mat easier, no adhesives, tapes, or glues are used with these mats.

Since these garage floor mats are waterproof, they will last a very long time and will actually help keep mildew and mold from growing in your garage. Another important fact about these mats and covers is that they are non-slip making them much safer to use. Your garage will be less noisy since garage floor mats and covers absorb sounds just like carpets do. Your garage can be used for a variety of other activities other than just parking your vehicle once it is padded and protected.

The females in your life will be all for the idea of having garage floor mats and covers once they see all of the advantages the come with them. Since she will love them after they are being put to use, you could always tell her it is a present to get her to give them a chance! ]]> http://ezinepowerpublisher.com/automotive/maintenance/the-off-road-world-and-the-economy-struggles.html http://ezinepowerpublisher.com/automotive/maintenance/the-off-road-world-and-the-economy-struggles.html Wed, 03 Jun 2009 17:19:52 -0500
While the government seems content in handing money to these industries companies like Polaris, whom has maintained steady cash flow due to products like Polaris RZR accessories has begun to also see a decline in customers and overall sales. The business structure for off road equipment sales is exactly the same as the automotive industry. If you are interested in buying a Yamaha dirt bike you'll walk into a show room where a sales person will greet you and walk you though your purchase. In most cases a loan officer and bank will be involved in the purchase of your equipment. While that's being processed take a look around. You'll most likely see a wealth of after market products. In-fact, the after market products for off road vehicles surpasses the automotive industry in triplicate. One you've purchased your off road vehicle there will surely be a service center that is there to assist you with those needed modifications or necessary repairs.

If all of this sounds familiar, it should, it's the exact same process that's taken when you purchase a brand new automobile. This means the impact of losing this business is as bad as losing a local Ford dealership. Large multi dealership complexes are being affected without the benefit of bail out money to help them survive through these challenging times. It's true that these dealerships tend to be smaller in size then dealerships that sell off road vehicles but in economic times as these, luxury items such as new Polaris RZR accessories will be the first items left on the shelves. Most people cannot live without an automobile but when push comes to shove, they can live without their off-road weekends.

It's up to us as off road enthusiasts to support our local dealers and favorite online dealers and we can do that by simply enjoying our weekends by going to our favorite trails or race tracks. We'll surely break something and will need to repair it! In reality, spending money is the only way to keep costs down. As we move through this recession our favorite dealers will be forced to limit sales staff, product availability and raise prices to compete with the shrinking dollar. To combat this we need to support the businesses that have supported out habits over the last numerous years.
]]> http://ezinepowerpublisher.com/automotive/maintenance/how-to-cover-a-roof-with-a-tarp.html http://ezinepowerpublisher.com/automotive/maintenance/how-to-cover-a-roof-with-a-tarp.html Thu, 14 May 2009 03:50:46 -0500
It's every homeowner's worst nightmare: a leaking roof. Whether it's been caused by wear and tear or is the result of a hurricane, this is a situation that requires immediate attention. Failure to take proper action can seriously compromise the structural integrity of your roof, as well as cause major damage to the interior of your home. Simply slapping some plastic over a damaged roof is not sufficient; you must make sure that you use the right materials and take the correct measures to do the job right.

When a leak occurs in a roof, the damage extends far beyond the shingles and structure of the roof itself. A roof that experiences water damage can weaken or rot; over time, it can even completely collapse. Also, water damage can result in mold, which can further weaken your roof and make it structurally unsound. Therefore, as soon as a roof has incurred damages that may cause leaks, it needs to be covered thoroughly with the proper material.

The first - and most important - step in properly covering your damaged roof is choosing the right kind of tarp. One of the most popular, widely used choices is 2.7 ounce blue tarp. This kind of tarp is a big seller because it comes in a huge selection of sizes and is one of the least expensive options. However, you do get what you pay for: in exchange for saving a few dollars, you run the risk of not properly protecting your roof. BlueTarps are just not heavy duty enough to do this important job adequately.

Rather than skimp on the materials, you should invest in a heavy duty tarp that will do the job right. A great example is a silver, 6.0 ounce per square yard style tarp. These are incredibly strong and tear resistant. Using a tarp like this to protect your damaged roof is a great first step in ensuring that further, irreversible damages do not occur.

Once you have purchased the proper kind of tarp, gather the other necessary supplies. You will need a couple of 2 x 4 wood strips, nails, a hammer, a knife, safety glasses and a ladder. You will preferably want to have all of these supplies at the ready on a utility belt so that your hands are free. Pinpoint the areas on the roof where the damage has occurred and where leaks have started, then carry your silver tarp and tools to the roof and follow these steps:

1) Roll out enough of the tarp to cover the damaged section(s) of the roof; it should extend from the eaves to the peak, and it should be cut so that an additional four feet are on either end.

2) The 2 x 4's should be two feet longer than the width of the tarp; wrap one end of the tarp around one of them. Carefully nail in or staple the tarp to the 2 x 4.

3) Nail another 2 x 4 over the tarp that is already secured to the first 2 x 4; the tarp will now be between the two strips of wood.

4) Place the secured end of the tarp on the eaves line; drape the tarp over the ridge and to the other side of the roof.

5) Secure the other end of the tarp the same way you did the first one (see step 3); nail it to the roof cheathing.

6) Use additional 2 x 4's to nail down and secure the other sides of the tarp.

By purchasing the right kind of tarp and carefully following these steps, you can make sure your roof is properly protected. Why run the risk of having your roof destroyed? Doing this job the right way, with the right materials, is imperative.


]]> http://ezinepowerpublisher.com/automotive/maintenance/keep-a-happy-motorbike-this-winter.html http://ezinepowerpublisher.com/automotive/maintenance/keep-a-happy-motorbike-this-winter.html Sat, 28 Feb 2009 13:25:09 -0600 If you want to ensure your motorbike emerges from the winter months free from corrosion and rust, then you'll need to take the right precautions.
From damage prevention and storage to motorbike insurance, Jeff Stone of the British Motorcyclists Federation (BMF) shares his top tips for a road worthy bike come spring.
Antifreeze
"Before storing your bike, change the brake fluid and hydraulic clutch, as both systems may suffer if moisture seeps in. To protect from frost, air-cooled engines will be fine as there’s nothing to freeze. However, engines that are water-cooled need antifreeze to ensure the coolant isn’t frozen - and make sure it’s winter strength. If you’re in any doubt, drain out the coolant and refill with the correct strength."
Remove the Battery
“If there’s a danger your battery might freeze, remove it and keep it in the house or garage. Remember, it’s not good practice to start a petrol engine unless it’s going to reach its optimum temperature of 80 degrees, as this could lead to condensation and corrosion. You can also buy a battery condition monitor, which will plug into the mains and automatically charge the battery if it gets too low. These are available from good bike accessory stores for around £14."
Keep it Clean
"Dirt and grime not only affects your bike aesthetically, it creates mechanical problems too. Dirt can harbour moisture and lead to corrosion and rust. So before you store your bike, give it a good clean using warm water and a sponge (an old toothbrush will help you reach awkward areas) and allow it to dry.
“Spray a light mist of WD40 on the bike to keep moisture at bay, it’s easy to wipe off come spring with a soluble degreaser. If the rear drive chain is exposed, ensure it’s well lubricated with a proper chain spray lubricant. But don’t spray brake components as it can seep down to the brake pads. Mask them while you’re spraying the bike using newspaper and polythene."
Take Cover
"If you can, store the bike in a warm garage. If not, cover the bike with a properly designed cover to allow air to circulate and prevent condensation and corrosion. Alternatively, buy a purpose-designed motorbike shed, that’s just big enough for your bike.
"Try and keep the tyres off the ground. If your bike has a centre stand, use it to pivot the bike and keep the wheels and tyres in the air. If your bike has the more common side stand, prop it up using blocks to lessen the strain on the bike’s suspension and tyres."
Bike Insurance
Don’t be tempted to save money by cancelling your motorbike insurance over the winter. You'll still need cover for fire, accidental damage and if the bike is stolen. Other points to consider are whether the policy covers accessories like your luggage and riding kit.

]]> http://ezinepowerpublisher.com/automotive/maintenance/van-maintenance-how-to-change-a-tyre-on-a-van.html http://ezinepowerpublisher.com/automotive/maintenance/van-maintenance-how-to-change-a-tyre-on-a-van.html Sat, 28 Feb 2009 11:02:48 -0600
Don’t panic, it’s not the end of the world. But it’s also not going to fix itself, so roll up your sleeves and get stuck in!

As with most things in motoring, preparation is key. With that in mind, ensure you have the basic kit already in the vehicle to get back up and running.

To get the job done quickly and most importantly, safely and correctly, you’ll need a flat-headed screwdriver, a jack complete with winding handle, the right sized socket spanner, some rubber wheel chocks, a reflective triangle and, of course, a spare tyre that’s in good condition. There’s no point putting on a new wheel, only to discover it too has a puncture.

You may also wish to have some oil-based lubricant handy like WD40, as well as a luminous high-vis jacket, a torch in case it’s dark, some gloves to stop your hands getting filthy and a roll of old carpet to kneel on.

Now that you’re fully prepared, here’s your step-by-step guide to changing a flat or damaged tyre…

Pull in safely

If your flat happens while you’re driving, put on the hazard lights and slow down to about five MPH. Pull in at the first convenient, safe place, away from heavy traffic. If this isn’t possible, at least go somewhere the vehicle is clearly visible.

For the record, never attempt to change a tyre on the hard shoulder of a motorway, it’s just too dangerous. Call your breakdown company. Also, if you are carrying a particularly heavy load then your jack might prove ineffective – in which case you should also call your breakdown company. The same goes for if your load in unstable.

Secure the van

Now you’ve pulled over, make sure the van is parked on the flat. Don’t try to change a tyre on uneven ground. Put the hand brake on firmly and put the van into first gear – or park if it’s an automatic. Place a rubber wheel chock in front and behind the wheel diagonal to the one you’re changing – for example, if the flat is front passenger side, place chocks around the rear driver-side wheel.

Now get your reflective triangle and put it about 20 metres behind the van. Where this goes depends on what road you’re on, really. For example, if you’re on a winding lane, put it in a place that will warn approaching drivers you’re there and parked up. Popping the bonnet up is also a good tip to let other drivers know you’re repairing something too.

Unpack your equipment and get started

Check the spare tyre is inflated properly and that you have everything you need. With all your tools out in front of you and the van securely in place, take off the hubcaps with the screwdriver (if your van has them) and then loosen the wheel nuts, turning ANTI-CLOCKWISE. Do this while the van is on the floor, as the weight will help you.

Don’t take the nuts off at this point, just loosen them so they’re finger tight. If they’re too stiff to move, spray some lubricant on each nut and try again. If you’ve got locking wheel nuts, you’ll need to find the key for them too.

Position the jack

You need to find the jacking point on the van. This will be made clear in the user manual and is something you really want to get right. If you put the jack head in the wrong place, it might go through the floor of your van when you start raising it up. Lift the van high enough so a fully inflated tyre can go in its place. It’s important you never, ever go under any vehicle that’s only raised up by a jack.

Change the tyre

Now remove the wheel nuts completely, and put them in safe place so they don’t roll away. Remove the flat tyre and put it down flat. Put the new tyre in place, and put the wheel nuts back on, just tight enough so the new wheel won’t come off.

Secure the wheel

Lower the vehicle and only remove the jack when the van is firmly on the ground. Now tighten the wheel nuts using the socket spanner, turning CLOCKWISE. Tighten in a diagonal fashion – for example, if you’ve tightened the nut at the 10 o’clock position, tighten the one at 4 o’clock next, and so on until they’re all as tight as you can get them with your hand.

Finish up

Pop the hubcap back on and put all the equipment away. There are no marks awarded for speed, so take your time and don’t rush! You’ll also need to get the old tyre mended as soon as possible.

If, when investigating the flat tyre, you discover something more serious is wrong with your van, you’ll probably need professional help. For peace of mind, be sure your van insurance policy is up to date.

Read more on van maintenance here. ]]> http://ezinepowerpublisher.com/automotive/maintenance/8-step-guide-to-changing-your-car-engine-oil.html http://ezinepowerpublisher.com/automotive/maintenance/8-step-guide-to-changing-your-car-engine-oil.html Wed, 18 Feb 2009 13:18:06 -0600
Changing the oil is one of the most important things you can do for your car. Regularly changing the oil is a key part of good car maintenance - it helps the engine run smoother, live longer, and will improve performance.

Old oil clogs up critical parts of your car and could eventually cause engine failure, which can cost hundreds, even thousands, of pounds to put right.

Lots of car owners never get around to changing the oil themselves, preferring instead to leave it to a garage mechanic. But performing an oil change is actually quite a straightforward thing to do, and if you DIY you'll save yourself money.

Ideally you should change the car's oil every 3,000-6,000 miles (check your handbook for recommended mileage), and here's what you'll need if tackling the job yourself.
Oil Change Essentials

* Two wheel ramps

* Wedges

* Oil pan

* Old rag

* Clothes you don't mind getting dirty

* Latex gloves (or similar)

* New engine oil

* New oil filter

* Oil filter wrench

* Combination spanner

8 step guide to changing your car engine oil

1. Run the engine for a few minutes as warm oil drains easier than cold oil. If the car's been running for a while, allow time for the engine to cool down sufficiently as hot oil can scald.

2. Unless you drive a monster truck, you'll need to raise the car. Position a pair of suitably robust wheel ramps on a level surface. Carefully drive the car forward until the front wheels are squarely on the ramps. Engage the handbrake, switch off the engine, and leave the car in first gear (or 'Park' if automatic). Place wedges behind the back tyres for added safety. Note: Never use two jacks to prop up a car; they are simply not stable enough. Wheel ramps are readily available at stores such as Halfords.

3. With your gloves on (to protect your skin from harmful chemicals in the oil), slide underneath the car and locate the oil drain plug on the engine. Consult your owner manual for the exact location. Place the oil pan underneath.

4. Loosen the plug with the spanner and finish removing it by hand. Be prepared for a rush of oil. Again, it's essential not to do this when the engine is too hot. Once all the oil has drained away, firmly replace the plug.

5. Next change the oil filter. Pop the car bonnet and secure. Locate the oil filter and use an oil filter wrench to unscrew it. Take the new filter and put a thin layer of oil around the rubber seal to help protect the filter. Screw the new filter in place by hand and tighten.

6. Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine. Place the funnel over the hole (some oil bottles come with an integral funnel) and pour in the new oil. Refer to the owner manual for the oil capacity and check levels are correct by using the dipstick. Replace the oil cap.

7. Put the car in neutral and start the engine. Visually check for any leaks under the car. If there are, stop the engine, put it back in gear, and then make sure all seals are properly tightened.

8. Dispose of the waste oil correctly. Take it to a garage or petrol station with a recycling point.

Voila! You have now changed the engine oil and may boast to your friends about your impressive grease monkey credentials.
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